Spreewald
Just an hour’s train ride from Berlin is the amazing UNESCO recognized canal forest labyrinth known only as Spreewald. Providing a tranquil respite from Berlin’s hip urban vibes, this easy daytrip offers an adventurous excursion through a land that time seemingly forgot. Lazily paddle along Spreewald’s canals, learn to operate river locks, drink a cold beer on beer island, and review your Sorbian history lessons through the linked video below (like and subscribe). Afterwards, if I’ve succeeded in my goal of convincing you that this must be included in your next German itinerary, read the full article continued below for a step by step guide out of Berlin, and into Spreewald.
As per usual, this daytrip appears more complicated on paper than is reflected in reality, especially with me on your side. Start the journey to Spreewald at the Berlin Hauptbahnhof with a 21 Euro ticket for the RE2 in the direction of Cottbus. Find a window seat, and watch Berlin’s urban sprawl melt into the idyllic Brandenburg countryside. Don’t forget your train snacks though, as you’ve got 59 minutes until our stop in Lübbenau.
From the Lübbenau train station, cross the road and begin walking down the central street (Poststraße) it’s a straight shot from here towards the old town. It’ll be about a mile, but that isn’t so bad, and then you’ll be greeted by the adorable town center. From there, cut down Spreestraße, and keep walking til you hit the marina. Now you’ll be faced with 2 choices! Daytrippers like us may opt to paddle themselves through the canal system via rented kayak, but if that isn’t your bad don’t worry can also opt to be paddled via group boat tour. Assuming a reasonable fitness level, (and plenty of packed sunscreen and water) paddling through the canal system constitutes my preferred method. While the boat tour seems perfect for older individuals or those less comfortable with independent travel, it lacks the same sort of adventure, but you still get the fantastic views and fun locations.
“Independent travelers will be loaned a laminated canal map, so dust off your orientation skills, you’ll need them.”
For personal kayak rentals, follow the bridge across the canal from the marina to a dirt path. Arriving at Bootsverleih Hannemann (the rental shop), rent your vessel, and consult the laminated map they’ll give you. Ask the owner, and he will graciously explain the most scenic route for experiencing Spreewald’s greatest hits, but feel free to navigate your own path if you like. Just like that, you’ll be un-moored and traversing the open canals.
After some paddling, and hopefully a nutria sighting or two, (Nutrias are large rodents that live in the canals, like beavers but not), kyakers inevitably encounter their first river lock. Some are casually manned by the local, tip incentivized operators, but others will be left empty and abandoned. It’s going to be vitally important to arm yourself with some lock based knowledge, as it is very likely you will encounter an empty one during your travels. So to put it simply, river locks allow you to traverse 2 different water levels, like a wet elevator of sorts. By damming the river way, locks consist of a seal-able central chamber with gates on either side. Raising and lowering the water level within this central chamber is what the game is all about. Each of the gates has “windows” hidden under the water, which by using a lever to open or close these windows, will enable you to fill, seal, or drain the central chamber. If you are lucky then the lock entrance will be open towards you when you arrive, allowing you to simply paddle into the lock. If not, you’ll first need to equalize the central chamber with your level by either flooding it or draining it. The physical gate and window mechanism varies from lock to lock, but usually you’ll need to pull some sort of lever to open/close the windows. If you can’t read the controls on the lever, I suggest just flipping it to watch the water direction. A bit of trial and error never hurt anyone. Then once the water is equalized, you’ll be able to pull/push the gate open. These gates rely on water pressure to stay closed, so if you can’t open them it’s probably because the water isn’t completely equalized. Once you’ve got the boat in the lock, close the gate behind and do it all over again in reverse. If all has gone well, you’ll have successfully operated a river lock! If not, then there is always the scrub option: pull your boat out of the water, over the bank, and to the other side. It worked well for the group of teenagers before us, but it’s kinda lame.
“Locks can seem really complicated at first, but I promise, they are super fun!”
After 2 locks, you can continue down unimpeded to Lehde, but I recommend taking a break at beer island, or Gasthaus Wotschofska if you wish to use it’s official, but less whimsical, name. All that rowing is actually pretty difficult and muscle ache inducing work, so a beer, ice cream, and possibly full lunch spread work wonders after 2 hours of exercise. Go nuts. I know I did.
“I cannot overstate how much I enjoyed this beer garden.”
From Beer Island, the trip becomes adorably idyllic as paddlers enter Lehde’s outskirts. The dense swamp foliage gives way, revealing the quaint residences of the Lehde locals and lucky vacation home havers. Park your boat in the town center’s three canal junction, and head to the Freilandmuseum of Lehde. This open air living history museum replicates the daily life of 19th century Sorbians to whom this land is home. At only 5 euros per adult, it’s great value and supports a good cause. I’m actually shocked the experience doesn’t cost more as it’s extremely fun and interactive.
Afterwards, if you are anything like me, then it might be the time for a second Lunch. Lehde city center has a great restaurant on its banks where visitors can sample the famous local pickles and enjoy more beer while watching other kyakers float by. Once finished in Lehde, paddle back to your boat rental, and head back to the train station. You could easily go back to Berlin with plenty of time to enjoy yourself, but consider staying overnight as one more day in Lübbenau allows enough time for a trip to the Penguin Water Park, a German Sauna offering the ability to swim with penguins, or sit naked in a hot room that smells like pickles. It’s called Spreeweltenbad, and I’ve linked it HERE, as I stuck around to check it out.
“It is truly impossible to overstate how much fun this day trip is. So I hope you too manage to make it out here and visit Spreewald, the Venice of Germany.”
