The Basteibrücke
Nestled just outside of Dresden in the wonderful Saxon-Switzerland National Park, the Basteibrücke (Bastion Bridge) perches upon lofty peaks of sandstone, offering breath taking views of the river valley below. No secret to domestic tourists, thousands take the trains, cross the rivers, and tread the trails to this bridge in the stones. Originally, while backpacking through this region, I found myself daunted by the misleading information surrounding this daytrip. Perhaps this was best left to the locals or those with cars. Additionally, unlike most Near From Home day-trips, I was scouting this location completely alone. So, as one described by friends and family as “often confusing her lefts and rights”, my logistical anxiety was compounded. I soldiered on regardless and even managed the day-trip surprisingly easily. All of the logistical moving parts that initially daunted me still exist of course, however they mesh together well, making the excursion completely doable. Complete details are listed below, but the YouTube video I produced a year later features the same information plus tons of great visuals to sway your itinerary, if you’re one the fence. Whichever option you choose, I hope you can confidently tackle this daytrip from Dresden anxiety free.
The advice floating around online, emphasized needing a bus tours or even needing a rental car. Just go ahead and ignore that, as instead, I recommend saving money with public transportation. Starting from the Dresden Hauptbahnhof, you’ll take the S1 train leaving hourly in the direction of Schöna, so feel free to get some extra sleep and take the 10:30 train. There is no need to rush. However, serious photographers, may want an early start as the picturesque landscapes become sullied by tourists past 9:30 am. After about 30 minutes on the SBahn (a ride so short I accidentally went too far and had to backtrack, so keep your wits about you), disembark at Kurort Rathen Station. Head down the hill towards town and through it to reach the Elbe river.
“The boat ride, though not the main event, was really fun and scenic.”
Crossing the Elbe River proved surprisingly low key, lasting no more than a few minutes for 2 euros (cash only) in both directions. Once across, visitors find themselves in the tiny Rathen village center which is super cute. Don’t get too distracted yet as we’ve got a bridge to see. So, follow the main road into the town until you reach a three way intersection, turn left, and climb the stairs jutting left into the mountains. Super simple if not poorly marked. With no entrance fees or fuss, you have now entered the Saxon Switzerland National Park. Congratulations :)
“Don’t get sidetracked! I promise we will explore the town after, but for now we’ve got a bridge to find.”
After half an hour of uphill stair hiking, tourists reach a ridge, offering several lookout points featuring the Elbe river and surrounding countryside. Several staircases later stands the only ticketed section of the Bastei, the Neurathen Castle Ruins. It’s completely optional, but fun nonetheless, so if you’ve got the time then give it a go. Not much of the structure remains, but the ruins provide new and interesting Bastei views. Don’t feel compelled to view it immediately though, as the way back to town brings you past the ruins ticket booth again, so visitors can easily opt for a visit after the main attraction.
“The bridge is the main reason to travel here nowadays, but don’t forget, the only reason the bridge exists it because this park is stunning.”
Continuing along the trail for just a few more minutes visitors are at last led to the Bastei Bridge. It’s sorta funny because as beautiful as this bridge is, your view will be from the top. However, after you’ve crossed the bridge and look back against the Elbe River backdrop, the impressive man made stone bridge greats you proudly while somehow simultaneously blending into the massive pillars of water-eroded sandstone rocks. If you haven’t already checked out the Youtube video linked above, I”m going to plug it again as my descriptions feel quite inadequate for such a cool fusion of geometric masonry and the natural world. Across the bridge itself are dozens of lookout points and on the far end are two terrace levels with cafes, and an additional metal platform made for the sole purpose of marveling at the bridge. It’s this platform that is responsible for the very popular Bastei money shot plastered across r/Germany, and r/Europe (and also our thumbnail).
Return to town by retracing your steps, along the way visitors will encounter a fork near the bottom of the descent that you probably missed on the way up. Both paths lead down into the valley of course, just at different points on that same road we took from the boat through the town. However, the path to the left takes hikers a little further away from town and towards a restaurant I affectionately call “the fish hut” because pronouncing it’s German name is too hard (Forellenräucherei). It’s menu features smoked river fish sandwiches and quaint seating along a cozy brook leading through the village to the Elbe. Stop for some fish, sausage, bread, and beer before heading back to the ferry. Hopefully, with luck or good planning on your side, you wont have to wait too long for the Sbahn back to Dresden.
