Ehrenberg and The World of Castles
Not far from Bavaria’s main tourism staples sits the tiny Austrian village of Ruette in Tirol. Towering above the citizens, unbeknownst to them until recently, sits a trio of historical ruins, only recently rediscovered. Before excavation in 2000, the existence of Ehrenberg Castle, Fort Claudia, and Schlosskopf were simply a well kept secret among medieval enthusiasts.
Previously hidden in the mountains and obfuscated by trees, visitors can not only access the three castles via well marked hiking paths, but they can also experience an interactive museum, cross the world’s longest pedestrian suspension bridge, and of course chill in a beer garden. Taking home the gold as my favorite Munich daytrip, this experience fuses my love of mountains, hiking, and castles all while remaining hidden from the over tourism crowd only a few villages over at Neuschwanstein. In fact, in my now two trips to Ehrenburg, I’ve encountered no international tourists, only German speaking day trippers. So as of December 2019 (despite a brief feature on Rick Steve’s Best of Europe), this location still remains locals only. That being said, with lesser known attractions comes much less public and tourism infrastructure and not to mention of course lower levels of English. Which can make this trip fairly difficult for those without much independent travel experience. An example of how tiny Ruette is, I have taken a taxi from the village around four times, and in each trip the taxi driver was the same woman. My friends and I joked that she probably was just finishing breakfast at her house before driving to pick us up.
“Beer & Käsespätzle V.S.
Castle Ruins & Mountains”
At the Munich Hauptbahnhof, purchase a ticket from a DB machine or from the DB Reisezentrum heading to Ruette in Tirol. You’ve got some options though. An RB train running from Munich directly to Ruette which is obviously the most convenient train-wise, but they don’t have too many per day so the actual scheduling can be difficult. No worries though if the timing doesn’t work out, as you have a train change option. Take the next RB or RE train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and transfer at that station to an RB or RE train to Ruette in Tirol. You might end up with a little time in Garmisch, but that isn’t the worth thing in the world. Either way, as with all my Munich daytrips, you’ll want to begin as early as you can since the train ride alone lasts about 2 hours and you’ll want plenty of time to see all the castles.
Once in Ruette in Tirol you need to get from the train station to the World of Castles by either walking from the town center or taking a taxi. Having visited the site several times, I can easily recommend both. The walk takes about 45 minutes, passing through the village and surrounding suburbs and finally cutting through a farm, with a short but steep hike at the end. I recommend this option for visitors with extra time, i.e. those staying overnight in Ruette. The tourism board even offers a “Ruette Active” card for those staying in local hotels offering discounts on Ruette services. So, check that out if you can. With the time gained by not rushing back to Munich in the evening tourists can really get a feel for the local village life, so it’s easy to recommend. Then their is the taxi, obviosuly more efficient, plus hey it supports the local economy. For all its convenience though, please note that the taxi option proves slightly challenging, as I was forced to order the ride directly with the driver via phone call, and my B2 level German wasn’t prepared for a heavy dialect over poor cell connection. For non-German speakers, simply ask a local hotel receptionist for help. I find the rural Austrians the nicest of the Germanic people I’ve encountered, so don’t be intimidated. One receptionist even held my bags in a back room all day free of charge. The local train station doesn’t have any lockers, so it was critical to our plans that we find somewhere to stow them. Luckily with just how friendly everyone is, it wasn’t a problem at all.
“I really enjoyed the walk through town, and you never know, perhaps you’ll make a new friend on the way.”
Once at the site, you will quickly discover the importance of the ruins, as the neighboring highway 179 follows the original trading route from Venice North into central Europe. The collection of castles on site was no accident, as they sit high above the old Roman trading route, running through the narrow valley surrounded by Alpine peaks. This natural choke point gave the locals an advantage, allowing for easy fortification to ensure protection and taxation. In fact, the entrance to the World of Castles still boasts a small gate house where traders would pass, pay their taxes, and continue with their wares (mostly salt) into Germany.
Passing through the gatehouse, you’ll arrive in the main courtyard offering a museum, bathrooms, Gasthaus, ticketbooth, and cogwheel train. Check out the “Adventure Museum: on the Trail of Knights” before you head up the mountain. Although positioned as a children’s’ museum, I found myself highly recommending a visit, as it offers numerous interactive displays. you can develop a stronger understanding for Medieval life by trying on armor, swinging (blunted) weapons, playing dress up, and admiring architectural recreations. Not bad, all in all.
Now that you have experienced the gate house and main entrance, it’s time to begin hiking. For those with mobility issues, a newly built cogwheel train takes you to the Ehrenburg ruins, but Schlosskopf and Fort Claudia remain inaccessible for now. Continue past the train, down the paved walkway, following the signs into the woods on the right. After some uphill winding, you will come to a wide fork in the road. Take the path to the left if you want to begin the hike to Schlosskopf, or continue onward to the right for Ehrenberg. I recommend seeing Schlosskopf first since it is the most difficult part, taking about 40 minutes and traversing an elevation gain of 300 meters. Saving the experience for last could prove to be quite tiring. So, if you are able, head up and enjoy what I believe to be the best views I’ve experienced in Bavaria and Südtirol.
“Well worth the hike, Schlosskopf’s solitary and lofty peak makes an excellent picnic spot.”
The Schlosskopf fortress was built in 1741 as a defense for Ehrenburg, weakened by the recent invention of canons. Unfortunately, outside interest in claiming Ehrenburg waned, as did the need for protection, and the Schlosskopf fortress fell quickly into ruin. As for touring the site, I’ve visited the fortress twice during 2019, once in January, and again with friends in December. On both occasions, the main entrance to the fortress was blocked due to safety issues with the old walls. If you walk to the right of the fortress, there is a foot path that heads a little downhill and back up for about 50ft. There, you should see a low point in the walls where you can enter from behind the fortress, and safety explore the back half, which includes no structural weaks points, but instead a few view towers. Additionally, this is a great place to have a snack. Hiking down from Schlosskopf to Ehrenburg offers for 2 options: retrace your steps taken up to Schlosskopf, or take a much steeper and shorter trail near the back of Schlosskopf. I recommend retracing, as the views are wonderful and I don’t quite trust myself on such a steep trail.
The Ehrenberg ruins sit starkly in contrast with Schlosskopf. Those familiar with medieval architecture will recognize Ehrenberg as the significantly older site. Built in 1290, Ehrenberg’s ruins continue educating guests on the profound effect technology had on fortification architecture. Being built before the canon game changer, Ehrenburg boasts thin, resource preserving walls, with soaring heights granting archers the high ground above invaders. The overall shape also features several gates, and slim passages for funneling and cornering invading forces into narrow choke points. Guests can also walk through the sneaky night entrance to the left of the main gate for the full affect. After traversing the maze, take yet another Alpine scenery break before heading to the suspension bridge.
Now, I’m sure the massive Highline 179 suspension bridge has not eluded your sight, as the thin, 403 meter walkway 110 meters above the freeway is not exactly discreet. I’m sorry to reveal to those with a fear of heights that the Fort Claudia ruin is only accessible via this bridge. Theoretically, there is another trail to the fortress starting from the valley floor on the opposite side of the freeway, but it’s a long and steep climb. As you cross the bridge, allow your thoughts to wander at the modern engineering marvel. Funded by the EU, the bridge attempts to highlight the history and bridge (see what i did there?) cultural divides of this region. The suspension bridge costs 8 euros per person, and visitors can purchase tickets next to the museum at the park entrance, or at a machine just before the bridge. When opting for the second option, bring cash. I have heard rumors of the ticket machines in front of the bridge rejecting credit cards.
“The best views are saved for the brave at heart, willing to walk this intensely unnerving bridge.”
Once across the highway, snap some pictures with Ehrenburg and (again) the surroundings mountains, and head up to Fort Claudia. Much like the hike from the park entrance to Ehrenburg, this should only take about 20 minutes of uphill walking to see the fortress. Most reminiscent of Schlosskopf’s architecture, this fortress came into existence under similar circumstances. Fort Claudia was built almost immediately into obsolescence in 1645 after the 1532 reconquest of Ehrenburg. Eventually taken by the Bavarians in 1703, but abandoned before the close of the century. As with Schlosskopf, it just wasn’t practical anymore.
Afterwards, retrace your steps across the suspension bridge (covered in the ticket), and back down the mountain to the World of Castles entrance. Perhaps rest at the beer garden, before returning to Ruette and the next leg of your journey, back to Munich. Those returning to Munich, simply reverse the ascent with the same taxi or hiking path. With the sheer number of sites the World of Castles offers and the complexity of the transportation, one could make a case, for spending the night in Ruette, and continuing your vacation, whereever that may lead you, the following day. In fact, many elevate this from a day trip out of Munich, into a single stop on a longer Bavarian exploration. Both work well, but, if I’m being honest, a day trip from and back to Munich could be a little much for some. The decision is yours!
