Neuschwanstein

Nestled in the Alps, just on the border with Austria, sits Bavaria’s most famous tourist attraction, Neuschwanstein Castle. This jewel in the mountains is not only Bavaria’s most popular site, but Germany’s as well, consistently ranking as the most visited destination throughout the entire country. However, although the fairy tale castle constitutes a world famous tourist destination, I’m willing to spill the tea here, and admit that I often rank this attraction at the bottom of my Bavarian daytrip recommendations, as there are simply other daytrips from Munich that I believe will provide travelers with a much higher return on investment. I know this is an usually harsh opinion usually not expressed in travel content, but please stick with me, as I’m sincerly invested in providing travelers more nuanced and comprehensive pieces to ensure they put their limited time and money to good use. That being said, this article features not only the logistics of a Neuschwanstein trip, but also several off the beaten path activities that I believe elevate this passable day trip. My opinion aside though, let’s begin with the logistics for what I jokingly refer to as Bavaria’s “fake castle”.

While many visit this famous castle via guided bus tour, I find that strategy overkill, as Neuschwanstein’s infrastructure offers a simple enough daytrip from Munich. The transportation is straight forward, and the public infrastructure is obvious and always in English. So, for those shirking the tour in favor of the do-it-yourself-method, let’s begin with the most pertinent aspect, ticketing. Unlike most daytrips from Munich, Neuschwanstein requires advanced planning due to the site’s ticketing system. Tourists can walk up to and around the castle without ticket (an aspect I will discuss later), but most guests want to tour the castle interior. Unfortunately, tours are accessible via pre-booked guided tours must purchase a ticket in advance either from the ticket booth at the base of the mountain, or online. I recommend the latter, as the onsite ticket line is insanely long, and doesn’t always confirm a tour. Many spontaneous tourists have their hearts crushed, only to learn after a long wait that tickets were sold out online days before. So, those wanting a tour should book a tour date and time well in advance. In addition to Neuschwanstein Castle(13 euros), tourists may also purchase tickets to Hohenschwangau Castle(13 euros) just across the valley, and the Bavarian hall of Kings(11 euros). Combination tickets also offer better rates for those wishing to see some combination of the aforementioned sites. On the day of your booked tour, head to the Munich Hauptbahnhof to begin your day.

Ok, with the complexity of the ticketing system explained, the actual logistical breakdown can begin! First up is a train ride from Munich to Füssen lasting ~2 hours, then a 20 minute bus ride from Füssen to the actual Neuschwanstein site, and finally a 30 minute uphill walk. With this in mind, you might be inclined to leave Munich about 3 hours before your scheduled tour. However, guests must arrive 90 minutes before their scheduled tour allowing for enough time to put up their tickets, walk uphill to the castle, and que in line at the castle entrance. So, with that in mind, guests should actually arrive at the Munich Hauptbahnhof about 4-5 hours ahead of their booked tour. As for train ticketing options, purchase a Bayern ticket for the best value, and hop on a BRB train leaving every 2 hours in the direction of Füssen. Be sure to snag the left side of the train for the best Alpine views.

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Once off the train in Füssen, you will see the bus parking lot just across from the train tracks. Follow the crowds and signs through the small Füssen train station and board bus 78. I certainly hope you didn’t wait until now to use the bathroom. For some reason, tourists forget about the train bathrooms, opting for the Füssen station bathrooms. I absolutely do not recommend this, as the bathrooms are not free, the lines are hellishly long, and you’ll likely miss your bus, which is unfortunately synced with train arrivals. Don’t risk waiting an additional hour, and use the train bathrooms. After the ride on bus 78, follow the crowds and signs again, walking past those waiting to purchase tickets, to pick up your prepurchased risk avoidant ticket. Now it’s time for a proper walk! It can be a little strenuous, but riding up via horse drawn carriage is also an option for a small fee. If you left Munich with my recommended 4-5 hour buffer time spend some time at the view points around the castle base. Afterward, walk through the castle gates, into the courtyard, where you’ll que for your tour. During this tour you’ll realize that the castle remains unfinished, as the interior is mostly under furnished and empty. Delving into the historical background, Ludwig II began construction in 1869, not for any practical purpose beyond wealth flaunting and vaguely emphasizing nationalistic notions of Germany’s Medieval history. After years of economis issues, the castle was completed in 1886 to the tune of 250 million euros (in today’s currency). Ludwig lived in the castle for about 172 days before “drowning” in a mysterious swimming accident with a knife plunged in his back. Bavaria immediately began recouping Ludwig’s building costs by opening the site up to tourists, preserving the castle as Ludwig’s half moved into home. After the tour, don’t immediately move to the next castle. Rather, check out the surrounding walking trails for some bomb insta photos. In addition to the views, the Marienbrücke suspension bridge crosses a gorge behind the castle, pulling guests into the heart of the mountains and makes for the quintessential photo of the castle. After some exploring and picture taking, you can now set out for Neuschwanstein’s little brother, Hohenschwangau.

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Hiking around Neuschwanstein, no matter the weather, is always worth it!

Now Hohenschwangau offers an aesthetic departure from Neuschwanstein with a less conventionally splendid style. I actually prefer this castle as a contrast to Neuschwanstein’s overwhelmingly pristine exterior. Perhaps Hohenschwangau appears more in line with other 19th century palaces, or maybe I simply like the yellow exterior. Either way, the site is worth a visit. Previously dilapidated, this site was purchased by Ludwig II’s father, (Maxamillion of Bavaria) in 1832. He restored the the 12th century fortress ruins into the castle seen today. As such, Ludwig II spent his childhood summers here, and later upon his father’s death took up full time residence here. Again, access is only granted via guided tour, but the lines and crowds are much less stressful than Neuschwanstein’s. Once finished, catch the bus back to Füssen.

Rather than returning directly to Munich, consider exploring Füssen, as it’s a worthy attraction in its own right. Unlike other the Bavarian villages I’ve visited, Füssen feels incredibly medieval. While other villages boast a central high street, Füssen’s twisting and winding alleyways feel ancient and expansive. As such, I feel comfortable recommending a wander, and not only in just the main town, but also in the outskirts as they too provide an engaging walk. I specifically recommend the aesthetic walk west along the Lech River to the elevated Baumgarten park. Make an loop by walking away from the town, along the river, and back to town through the park. There you’ll come across some ruins, and eventually the High Castle of Füssen. Turn left, to head back down into the town, and back to the train station.

 
Even a short 30-minute walk like this one would be well worth your while.
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So there you have it, my logistical advice for Germany’s most popular attraction, Neuschwanstein Castle. I have detailed the logistics for this Munich daytrip to the best of my ability, and now I give myself permission to drop more spicy opinions. Although this constitutes Germany’s most popular tourist attraction, as well as Munich’s number one daytrip, I can’t highly recommend the daytrip for several reasons. The first and most important reason being that the entire site is incredibly touristy, not reflecting the reality of Bavarian life. Second, in a historical sense, the castle doesn’t really represent an incredibly nuanced or multifaceted window into German history. Yes, Ludwig the II was an important Bavarian King, and this castle represented a significant historical event, but outside wealth flaunting and yearning for a manufactured version of Bavaria’s medieval history, the castle strikes me as incredibly superficial. Seeing as the castle has only ever existed as a tourist site (outside the 172 days of Ludwig’s residence) the site sends major Disney World vibes. Rather than experiencing Alpine culture or history, I’m left feeling as though I’m waiting in line at a Bavaria themed park. Third, Neuschwanstein’s tour is not exactly a great return on investment. Considering the 4-5 hours in transit, ticket bureaucracy, insane crowds, and disappointingly empty castle tour, I just can’t recommend Neuschwanstein Castle to tourists before a myriad of other Bavarian daytrips (especially when accounting for limited vacation days). However, if you are struck with major FOMO, I completely understand, and have an alternative guide.

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The castle is cool and all, but how is the view not the star of the show!

I CAN recommend spending a more relaxed daytrip at Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau, without the hassle of scheduling and purchasing the tours. I honestly think the castle tour is very skip-able, so I just recommend ditching the ticket reservation process, and simply walking the paths around the site while snapping some pics with the castles and Alpine vistas. Afterwards, head back to Füssen, and have the wander I previously described. Füssen, to my surprise, is a shockingly fun town to walk around or to sit and have a coffee in. I’m confident that if you built your day around those two tent poles, you’ll have a more relaxed. This should only last about half a day though if you move quickly and so it can be combined easily with another, more authentic Bavarian site. Perhaps spend the second half of the day traveling by bus/train to Ruette, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, or Mittenwald. These other options are linked HERE.

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