Eisenberg & Hohenfreyberg

Those familiar with NearFromHome are likely familiar with our hot takes on Germany’s most famous tourist attraction, Neuschwanstein. Sitting just north of the German/Austrian border near the town of Füssen, Neuschwanstein castle stokes the imagination of tourists, with its soaring towers and pristine white walls juxtaposed against the wild Alpine backdrop. As for my personal relationship with the fairy tale castle, after learning the historical background of the site, I’m left not quite as mesmerized. King Ludwig the Second built this monument in the style of medieval castles during the mid 19th century, a mere 16 years before the first skyscrapers invaded the Chicago skyline, relegating the castle’s function purely to the aesthetic. This style was particularly concerned with conveying a modernist’s fantasy about an imagined medieval past, leaving the relationship between the middle ages and Neuschwanstein mostly a fantasy. Although many are able to simply enjoy the site as an artistic experience (no hate), I have difficulty separating the art from the historical intentions surrounding the art. This leaves me searching for more, sites a little older, representing a realistic reflection of medieval German life. And hey, while we are at it, I wouldn’t mind a good hike, views, and beer garden as well. Fantastically, I have found all those paired with not one, but two medieval castles a mere 7 minute walk apart. So, come with me, as we forget Neuschwanstein and get out into old Bavaria.

Tourists feeling similarly about the over crowded fairy castle can find respite mere 5 kilometers north of Neuschwanstein in the Bavarian town of Eisenberg, where hidden in the Alpine farmlands, lay two medieval castle ruins frequented by Bavarian locals and outdoor enthusiasts. Beat the crowds and prices experiencing some historical authenticity with one of my favorite daytrips out of Munich to the Eisenberg and Hohenfreyberg castle ruins. These ruins offer a glimpse into medieval societies, political systems, and warfare all against the quintessential Bavarian backdrop. Hey, on a clear and bright day you can even see Neuschwanstein far off nestled in the hills. Additionally, this more remote trip provides a great first experience for tourists looking to practice their independent travel skills as the castle ruins maintain a remote, locals only attraction, hidden away in the hills while still providing the safety of the, Neuschwanstein centered infrastructure. Check out the our video above, or keep reading for the full logistical breakdown.

Begin your daytrip at the Munich Hauptbahnhof with your Bayern ticket, a classic among my recommendations, catching the BRB train in the direction of Füssen. These trains only run every two hours, so check the time tables and plan ahead. Also consider boarding the train significantly earlier than the departure time to ensure sitting with your travel companions. The astute among you will recognize the train’s final destination as Neuschwanstein’s Füssen, and know the train is typically packed with tourists on their pilgrimage to the fairy tale castle. As for time, we took the 7:52 am train to allow extra time to film, but ultimately the 9:52 am train also works well for this daytrip. After an hour and 50 minutes, disembark at the tiny Weisen-Hopferau station, just one stop before Füssen.

Cross the main road and turn right. After walking about 100 ft, turn left down Pröbstener Straße, following this road for about 20 minutes, until presented with signs marked “Burgrunie Eisenberg” and “Burgruine Hohenfreyberg”. Follow the signs to the left, along the path leading up between the cow pastures and into the hills. At this point, the paths are well marked, and no further directions are needed from me. Taking many breaks between the incredibly steep hike, admire the sea of farm land filled with the ringing of cowbells in the distence.

“I know we came here for castles, but damn if I don’t want to stay for this hike.”

If lunch is your aim, hike first to the Eisenberg Castle ruins, as this site provides more comfortable picnic spots. Weather permitting, also try spotting Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau across the valley from the front courtyard, back deck, or watch tower. As you’re exploring, visualize Castle Eisenberg’s role as a bastion of medieval strength, fortifying lordship and rule in the region. With that in mind, I find the castle’s history quite funny, as the structure was only built by the nobles of Hoheneg after they were driven from their original castle in a defeat at the hands of the Tyroleans. The nobles quickly established their lordship over the Eisenberg locals, building this castle of the same name to both establish their rule, and challenge their earlier conquerors. One can see the nobles’ latter wish through Castle Eisenberg’s architecture, specifically the well preserved outer wall which is quite high for typical medieval castles. Academics suspect the architects mimicked the appearance of other medieval towers, creating the illusion of a high bastion as a sort of spite gesture towards the Tyrolean enemies. Later, despite the aristocratic posturing, the castle was comically sold to the Tyroleans, where it sat in wait. Finally, in 1525, the castle saw action and was badly damaged in the German Peasants’ War. The final blow was cast in 1646 during the Thirty Years War, when the Tyroleans damaged Eisenberg themselves in an attempt to prevent enemies from gaining the strategic advantage of the fortification.

“One of my favorite lunch spots in all of Bavaria.”

Head back down the path, and follow the marked trails a mere 7 minutes, just over to the other hill to see Hohenfreyberg. What this castle lacks in comfortable lunch spots, it totally makes up for in engaging ruins to explore. Hohenfreyberg offers more intact outer/inner walls and towers, plus an accessible second floor. Through these structures we can also see Hohenfreyberg’s position as a regional fortification, but also an aesthetic oddity. Although built in 1418, Hohenfreyberg hearkens back to the style of Medieval castles of 200 years prior. Again, we rely on the educated guesses of scholars for our answer. They’ve suggested that perhaps the nobles of of Eisenberg built this castle in such an outdated style in response to significant sociopolitical changes. As the German nobility waned in exchange to the rising bourgeoisie, academics theorize the Eisenberg nobles subconsciously expressed their discomfort with the changing hierarchy by building a magnificent medieval fortress, implying their desire to express the strength of an unbroken line of power. Unfortunately Hohenfreyberg met the same fate as its sister castle in the German Peasants War and the Thirty Years War. However, Hohenfreyberg visitors can observe that the structure did not suffer as much damage as Eisenberg.

Around this time, consider checking the train schedule, as again, the train runs back in the direction of Munich only every two hours. Keeping track of the schedule, in relation to the hour long trek back to the station will help you avoid any unfortunate wait times.

But if you do miss your train, or you need to wait a while for another one.

Well I can think of worse places.